#CNILux Day Two ดอนนาเทลล่า Goes Digital

To see now, buy now, or not to see now, buy now - that has been the question on everyone's lips in the luxury fashion industry since late 2015. But while Tom Ford and Burberry hit the headlines following their announcements earlier this year (both are pro), Versace has been operating its Versusline in this way for three years. 

"We pioneered it some time ago, which brought advantage but also risk," Versace's CEO Gian Giacomo Ferraris told Suzy Menkes. "I recall when we had the idea. Mrs Donatella, who wants everything now, wanted it to be immediate. Our customer is young. They are the millennials who aren't waiting six months for something. So at the time we created a specific business model, completely different from the first line's production. To do this, you have to make sure you have an integrated supply chain and distribution channel, as you have to buy in advance."

The risk paid off and has turned into the blueprint for other brands to refer to - Versus closed with profits of €37 million last year, said Ferraris, a triple-digit growth in the two years since it brought the line back in house and changed tack.

But see now, buy now isn't the only big fashion story that the brand has been involved with of late. It is very much a part of the current round of "revolving doors" following the departure of Versus Creative Director - and Donatella Versace protégé - Anthony Vaccarello earlier this month. But, as Ferraris pointed out, thanks to Donatella Versace, the code remains the same regardless of who holds the creative director title.  

"Donatella can work seven days a week, she's a workaholic. She embodies the DNA and has huge creative talent, so she is able to anticipate the trend and she herself is the trendsetter," explained Ferraris. "There is no question that [the designers] are talented, but they were always under her artistic direction. Our life would be easier if we didn't have this disruption, but Donatella is always cultivating designers from America, Africa, Korea - there are a lot of young designers and I am always sure she will choose well." As to who Vaccarello's replacement will be, Ferraris revealed that - at least for the meantime - there will be two designers, one for womenswear, one for menswear. They are designers who are already at the company, having worked under Anthony there. 
 

Aside from talk of creative directors, however, Ferraris was keen to praise Donatella's efforts when it comes to social media. "With social media we are present on all platforms, but also - because of Donatella - we have created a personal profile to give an idea of how she approaches every situation," he said, revealing that she flew to Silicon Valley to meet with Instagram founder Kevin Systrom to find out exactly how to use it. "She is willing to have direct contact and this kind of social media creates a relationship with fans. People want to know what she does as a creative director, but also as a wife, mother, sister and in her real life. This interaction she is passionate about doing herself."

By Scarlett Conlon, reporting live from the Condé Nast International Luxury Conference in Seoul